| Any cheat codes | Browse by game: A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y 0-9 |
|
Half-Life: Counterstrike cheats / Half-Life: Counterstrike hints / Half-Life: Counterstrike faqs / Half-Life: Counterstrike solutions Half-Life: Counterstrike faqs and solutions Half-Life Counter Strike Weapons and Tactics Guide v.08 by Mochan last modified 3-11-2001 =============================================================================== Best viewed on a text processor with a fixed size font, width of 79 characters. =============================================================================== MISSION STATEMENT This file is meant specifically for the Counter Strike player who is getting trounced all the time from lack of experience and/or knowledge of tactics. I am sharing in this guide all the tricks to help you even out the playing field. You can try out all the other guides floating around, but I will be a big rat bastard and tell you that mine is the best to pick up. ^_^ But that's just me talking. Go see for yourself. This FAQ is also designed to make my name a household name and to promote the [gulay] way of life everywhere. By reading this FAQ you have condemned yourself to become a vegetable. Have a nice day. =============================================================================== E-MAIL POLICY ******* IMPORTANT! READ THIS BEFORE E-MAILING ME ANYTHING ******* I have created a Mailing List for this guide. I strongly urge you to mail Anything you have to say there instead of to me. See mailing list info below. If you want to mail me anyway, mail to PLEASE add a tag to the subject header [CS FAQ] Make sure to use that tag exactly as I type it, all caps! [CS FAQ] Don't forget. [CS FAQ] This will help me sort out all CS-related e-mail. Anyone who does not follow this rule might not receive an answer. >_< =============================================================================== ANNOUNCEMENTS =============================================================================== Some News: The CS Weapons and Tactics Guide has its own mailing list! See the Mailing List section. Yes, now there is no need for me to have a news section. This is the last time you will see this part of the guide. Since the last version (v.07) I have: - Canned the History section! Who cares about ancient history?! It's just making the guide larger than it should be. But if anyone wants it back.... New Techniques: - AK-47 in-depth weapon guide Revised: - FN Para factoids - Arctic Technique: Shun Satsu Sen (elaborated further on its usage) =============================================================================== MAILING LIST =============================================================================== The Half Life: Counter Strike Weapons and Tactics Guide has its own mailing list! This is primarily for people who wanted me to send them updates as soon as I finished writing. From now on, I will be sending a message to the mailing list whenever a new version of the guide is available. You can then scoot over to my webpage where I have stashed latest version (or to GameFAQs, whichever gets it up first). I would have invited you all to join the ML, but I can't remember everyone who wrote in! Sorry! You can also use the mailing list to voice out whatever you want to say about Counter Strike, playing it, and the guide itself. It is also a good way to contact me. This way, I can keep my e-mail account to myself, heheh. Don't expect much traffic at the ML, though. I'm not sure if people will be wanting to subscribe and write in. It's really just there for updates. To subscribe to the list, send mail to To post to the list, send mail to The homepage of the list is at -- http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CSFAQML Any other info about the list, such as unsubscribing, should be found there. =============================================================================== TABLE OF CONTENTS =============================================================================== MISSION STATEMENT E-MAIL POLICY ANNOUNCEMENTS MAILING LIST TABLE OF CONTENTS I. INTRODUCTION 1.a -- How to Use this Guide II. BASIC FIGHTING ATTITUDE III. BASIC COMBAT TRAINING 3.a -- Camping or Assaulting 3.b -- Aiming: Accuracy and Recoil 3.b1 - The Rule of Aiming 3.c -- Basic Shooting Styles 3.d -- Range 3.e -- Damage: Ammo and Location 3.e1 - Ammo 3.e2 - Location 3.e3 - Armor 3.f -- Stopping Power IV. THE WEAPONS 4.a -- Pistols 4.b -- Shotguns 4.c -- Submachine Guns 4.d -- Rifles 4.f -- Machine Guns 4.g -- Other Equipment 4.h -- Weapon Movement Speeds V. COUNTER-STRIKE TECHNIQUES 5.a -- General Techniques 5.a1 - Listening 5.a2 - Weapon Switching 5.a2a - Super Weapon Switching 5.a3 - Radar 5.a3a -- Cheap Night Vision 5.a4 - Miscellaneous Console Commands 5.a4a -- Sensitivity 5.a4b -- Crosshair 5.a4c -- Quick Weapon Switching 5.a4d -- Mouse Filter 5.a4e -- Binding Technique 5.a4f -- On the Fly Config Switch 5.a5 - Speed Buying Technique 5.a6 - End Reloading Technique 5.a7 - Bunny Hopping 5.b -- Defensive Techniques 5.b1 - Side Stepping 5.b2 - Ducking 5.b3 - Jumping 5.b4 - Shadow Technique 5.b5 - Hit and Run Technique 5.b6 - Crowd Defense 5.b6a -- Hostage Defense 5.b7 - Smart Reloading 5.b8 - Continuous Movement Defense 5.b9 - Flee from Fire Technique 5.b10 - Backstabbing Technique (Uragiri) 5.b10a -- Letting the Shadow Pass (Kage Yurutou) 5.b11a -- Baiting the Enemy 5.b11 - Hiding the Ghost (Yurei o Kakushite) 5.c -- Offensive Techniques 5.c1 - Stationary Aiming 5.c2 - Hot and Cold Firing Technique 5.c2a -- Jump Aiming 5.c3 - Figure Eight Sidestep Technique 5.c3a -- Anti-Arctic Technique 5.c4 - Assault Weapon Sniping Technique 5.c5 - Perpetual Motion Agressiveness Technique 5.c6 - Find the Weakpoint 5.c6a -- Finding the Blind Spot 5.c7 - Money Flash Awareness Technique (Kane Kae Sen) 5.c8 - Stealth Technique 5.c9 - Team First, You Last 5.d -- Dirty Tricks 5.d1 - Adjusting Light Gamma 5.d2 - X-Ray Vision 5.d3 - Super Figure Eight Sidestepping 5.d4 - Team Jumps 5.d4a -- Hostage Jumps 5.d5 - Sound Binds 5.d6 - Auto Aim 5.d7 - Smoke no More Technique (Kemuri Muyougiri) 5.d8 - Paralyzing Smoke Technique 5.d9 - Mimic Technique VI. COUNTER STRIKE ETIQUETTE VII. WEAPON SPECIFIC TECHNIQUES 7.i -- Weapon Archetype Guide 7A. Arctic Warfare Magnum 7B. H&K MP5-Navy 7C. Kalashnikov AK-47 APPENDIX A -- USEFUL LINKS APPENDIX B -- BOT TRAINING GUIDE (still under construction) APPENDIX C -- FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQ) i. DISCLAIMER ii. CREDITS iii. ADDENDUM =============================================================================== I. INTRODUCTION =============================================================================== This guide was written for the Half Life mod Counter Strike. CS needs no introduction, I believe it is currently the most popular multiplayer FPS game in the world. So popular that this unofficial MOD is now an official Half Life product. Now that Counter Strike is no longer a beta and has been officially released, I feel the time is ripe to release a new guide to help the new CS player on the way to fight the veterans on equal terms. Because of its new-found fame, more and more new players are coming out of the wood work. Sadly, these new players are woefully underclassed. Veterans have the advantage of knowledge and experience over the newbie. They're just too serious and take the fun away from the newbie. So, in the words of Mega Man X, it's "Time to get serious!" I got serious enough to write this guide to impart to the newbie one of the two things they need to get even: knowledge. Take note that just knowledge of these tricks will not make you an expert killer overnight! I am sure these techniques, tried, tested and proven over the years, will increase your playing skill tremendously, but in the end only practice and experience will make you a truly formidable CS killing machine. But these teachings, which I have learned from personal experience and from speaking with those better than me, are a good foundation to provide you the basic skills that will evolve into lethal killing techniques. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.a -- How to Use this Guide Although in theory I believe that clarity and conciseness is more important than volume, I am very poor in practice. Thus my ramblings are often very long. Much of what I wish to impart is contained in these long paragraphs, and should all be read to understand all that I am trying to say. However, for those with less patience, I have enclosed in "boxes" important tips that you should pay close attention to. Even for those reading everything, these enclosed boxes contain the most important points of the entire passage. ---------------------------------------- | READ THE ENCLOSED TEXT SUCH AS THIS! | ---------------------------------------- After reading through the guide, don't be worried if you didn't understand some things. You can't be expected to learn everything in one sitting. Most importantly, you should get some practical experience, preferably right after a reading. Always remember, practice makes perfect. Also, repetition is the key to learning. Once you've read this guide, practice. Then read it again, and practice some more. You will gain more understanding with each reading and each practice session, in time leading to an eventual culmination of all the lessons. And with the many excellent CS Bots coming out (like Count Floyd's POD Bot), there's no excuse for not finding any punching bags to practice on. I also include cheesy quotes like this to spice the guide up. Ignore them as you wish, they're just there for decoration: "If the student does not wish to gain strength, he cannot become truly strong." -- Hiko Seijuro, Rurouni Kenshin If the guidelines I stated above seem too demanding, all I can say is that I'm doing this for your own good. I'm trying to mold you into the best player you can be. This isn't some overnight miracle guide. You have to work for it. The desire to be strong must be present, overpowering, enough for you to overcome all these hardships and strive to reach the goal. If you are going to be half-hearted about the process, not practicing or taking the time to understand all the tricks in this treatise, then you will not become strong. But in the end, keep in mind that Counter Strike is only a game, and anyone taking a game too seriously needs to be dragged out and roughed up. Anyway, to help get the info you need, be sure to check the Table of Contents and see what looks useful to you. Copy the section of interest and use your text viewer's find function to skip to the relevant part. I regret the need to resort to this technique, but my organizational and layout skills are horrible, as you can see. =============================================================================== II. BASIC FIGHTING ATTITUDE =============================================================================== "A sword is a deadly weapon. Fighting techniques are what perfect killers." -- Himura Kenshin, Rurouni Kenshin (Hecto version) "A gun is a killing weapon. Fighting techniques are killing techniques. This will always be true." -- Me, paraphrasing the Hitokiri Battousai Remember that at all times a gun is a deadly weapon. Point it at someone only if you have the intention to shoot, and potentially kill. This is moral bullshit which I think people all people should remember. But also keep in mind that Counter Strike is just a game, and pointing a gun at someone in this game is done all in the spirit of fun. No hard feelings! But when you do point that gun at someone, be sure that you are whole-heartedly focused on aiming at him, and shooting to kill. Otherwise you will die and you'll be stuck as a ghost until the round ends. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- | Mental Focus and Determination are the most important traits of a killer | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Keeping your mind focused allows you to react faster, and thus kill faster. That is why having the right attitude to killing is very important. You must be whole-heartedly devoted to the act of pointing your gun at your opponent, and squeezing the trigger. Hesitation will end up with you dead. "There is a world of difference in our resolve. Unlike you, I am staking my life on this!" -- Rouge, Soreyuke! Uchuusenkan Yamamoto Youko As a PC game player, I'm sure you are familiar with the concept of savegames. However, savegames do gamers a disservice by making them bad players. Why? Because with a save game, you don't value your life. You are not "staking your life" on the outcome, because if you die you can instantly reload. However, consider a game with no save game, or limited save point functions (like Hitman or Resident Evil). Because you can't save anywhere, you do your best not to die at any given point (especially if you're far from a save point). Most people don't notice this, but this is a crucial factor in forming your mental condition. In Counter Strike, you should adopt a more advanced version of this philosophy. You should play as if your life were depending on it, as if there were no tomorrow. This will put you in a far better mental state. You must be determined to win. Although I reiterate that this is just a game, sometimes you need to adopt a deadly serious attitude to go beyond your limits. I don't recommend this for friendly play, but if you really must win, you might have to take the game far more seriously than you normally would. In real life, I think this is what they mean by "living life to its fullest." "Live your life, Kenshin." -- Hiko Seijuro, Rurouni Kenshin. Regardless, you must always keep your mind running, even while just standing in one spot. If you slack off even for one second, your reflexes will drop, and you will be a dead man. I cannot emphasize this enough. A casual player will probably just take a passing interest while fighting, may even snooze a bit while camping. These players often end up dead. But if you seriously want to improve, keep your mind focused. That is the true key to victory; physical skills like aiming and shooting are secondary to this basic truth. "You can win a thousand battles, but you can only lose one!" -- Zaknafein, Homeland I firmly believe that the best fighter is the one who is ALWAYS on alert; never to let his mind slip at any point. I must confess that I myself have not achieved this level. Ever wonder why sometimes you have "hot streaks," or times when you seemingly manage to kill wave after wave of enemies without taking a hit, but sometimes you can't kill for the life of you? My theory is that it is a case of mental control. You achieve a hot streak when your mental focus is at its highest, and a losing streak when your mind is at a low. While I have not managed to achieve that highest level of perpetual mental focus, nor do I know anyone who has, I am sure it is possible. I like to look at historic warriors who are said never to have lost a single battle -- Miyamoto Musashi, Yagyu Jubei, and so on -- to prove my point. It might help if you learn to meditate or do some other training to concentrate and focus your mind. Just a suggestion. Try taking up Zen, Yoga or some really intense sport if you really want to master Counter Strike, heheh. ^_^; =============================================================================== III. BASIC COMBAT TRAINING Now that you're hyped to kill your enemy, you need to learn some basic concepts regarding player movement in counterstrike. =============================================================================== 3.a -- Camping or Assaulting Now, in CS, each side, the terrorist and counter terrorists, have goals to achieve. Depending on the map, one side will usually be defensive or offensive. Indeed, some maps were meant to be very defensible for certain sides. Because of this, there are two main kinds of playing mindsets in CS: camping or assaulting. A camper is someone who sits tight in a very defensible position. People often despise campers because they are cowards who know nothing of honor and would rather hide behind a crate in a dark corner rather than fight head-on. Well, campers shouldn't let such taunts bother them; they do what they do to win, and camping is the way they know best to do this. Campers rely on patience, and often work in teams because no single person can cover all the critical points effectively. They wait for the enemy to take the battle to them. The team taking the defensive position, such as terrorists in a CS map, often makes use of camping techniques. An assaulter is someone who charges right into the fray. Whether the enemies choose to meet him in the same way, or whether they hide behind a rock is of no consequence; he will charge right in and make mince meat of his opponent as soon as he comes across him. They take the battle to the enemy. The team taking the offensive, like terrorists in a DE map, often go the way of assault. Now, each mindset has its advantages and disadvantages, but most people often fall somewhere in between -- they camp when they must, but they attack when the need arises. However, I've found that the truly great players who rack up lots of kills are often true bred in one of either of the two disciplines: the shameless camper who waits at the end of long corridors with his AWP, or the relentless attacker blaring away with his MP5. Campers have the advantage of position, and can stage ambushes. Defense is always stronger, they say, and campers can pick the most defensible position and stay there, waiting for the hapless assaulter to walk by, conveniently exposing their back to the camper. The drawback is that campers need lots of patience, and have to hone their reaction time greatly. Camping condones laziness, which dulls your reflexes. On average, a camper will develop slower reflexes than an assaulter. The worst part of camping is that they have little control over the flow of the game: they lend their destinies to fate, or more appropriately, to the actions of the assaulters. Assaulters, on the other hand, have the advantage of proactivity. By taking matters into their own hands, they call the shots: they do what they do, when they want to. They can stick together and attack in masse, while campers tend to spread out for defense. In other words, assaulters do what suits them best at any particular time. Because of inertia, a car in motion will accelerate faster than a car at rest. The same principle applies to people's brains from a physiological standpoint. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ | An assaulter will have a better reaction time than a camper: because | | they are always on the move, their minds are "in motion," not "at | | rest" like a camper. | ------------------------------------------------------------------------ In theory an assaulter will often shoot first if he and a camper detect each other at the same time. This has been proven to me time and time again over the years. It is up to you to choose what path you really want to take. You have the potential to rack up the kills no matter what you are, but keep in mind that the key to racking up those kills and staying alive depends greatly on how other people behave. The real secret to CS tactical behavior is anticipating everyone else's moves, whether they are going to camp or not, and bring the appropriate tactic to bear. For instance, if you're planning to camp but all your team mates are going to assault, you probably won't be getting too many kills. Likewise, if you go assault, but all your team mates are going to camp, you'll die in seconds from lack of cover fire. I cannot stress the importance of team behavior: in a friendly game this is not so important, but in serious fights like tournaments, or if you're playing to win, having team tactics is vitally important. But I'll discuss that some other time, that's an advanced tactic. For now, just remember that teamplay is crucial in CS. Knowing your team is not the only thing you need to do; you also need to know your opponents. If they plan to camp, do you go in and assault, guns blaring, and hope to succeed? Or do you have to use the appropriate tactic to breach their defense? Just keep these things in mind for now, for I will not discuss them at this point. The important thing now is to recognize the different kind of players in the game: campers or assaulters. Although I mentioned that pure, true breds of each are often the better players, the best player will likely be the wily, cunning player who knows when to be a camper, and when to be an assaulter. Just keep in mind the basic strengths and weaknesses of each style, especially with regard to map type. ---------------------------------------------------------- | CAMPERS: | | Strength: positional advantage (i.e. - sniping points) | | Weakness: no control over the flow of the battle, | | slower reaction time | | | | ASSAULTERS: | | Strength: control over the battle | | faster reaction time | | Weakness: prone to backstabbing and sniping | ---------------------------------------------------------- Learning to be either a good camper or a good assaulter is vital in CS. If you're defending positions, like hostage areas for terrorists or bomb sites for counter terrorists, good camping skill will help. But keep in mind that a swift assault by the defensive team is both unexpected and can neutralize the enemy's advance just as effectively as a long camp-out. As a newbie, you should master one style first. The choice in, the end, lies in what kind of weapon you prefer: assault weapons or sniper weapons. As we'll discuss later, what weapon you use greatly influences your playing style. If you like weapons like the MP5, M4 and Steyr Aug, then you should learn to be a good assaulter. But if you prefer weapons like the Arctic, then camping skills will suit you well. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.b -- Aiming: Accuracy and Recoil Regardless of whether you camp or assault, the most important skill you must learn in CS is how to aim. This is the most crucial part of CS gameplay; if you aim well, your enemy is toast. If your aim is lousy, you're toast. Simple. Aiming is equally important no matter what weapon you use, it's just that different weapons have different aiming nuances. This will all be discussed in the individual weapon sections. There are two very important factors to keep in mind when aiming: accuracy and recoil. Weapons have different ratings for accuracy and recoil. ACCURACY -------- Accuracy determines whether the bullet will go to the spot you're pointing at. You can tell a gun's accuracy by the size of the crosshair. The tighter the crosshair, the more accurate the gun. Your bullet will tend to go in the middle radius of the crosshair's lines. In addition, the more you shoot, the wider the crosshair becomes, decreasing your accuracy. RECOIL ------ Recoil is how much your gun will buck away from where you're pointing each time you fire a shot. The stronger the recoil, the harder it is to control the gun. Recoil is always constant for each weapon, but accuracy is affected by many things. Four things affect accuracy: 1.) Movement 2.) Jumping 3.) Swimming 4.) Ladders ----------------------------------------- | While moving, your accuracy goes down | ----------------------------------------- The amount by which it decreases depends on the weapon, but in general if you want your bullets to go where you aim, you should shoot while standing still. While you are jumping in the air, accuracy is virtually non-existent. ------------------------------ | Do NOT jump while shooting | ------------------------------ Unless you are using a very accurate weapon and are right next to your opponent, you will likely not hit your opponent. The same goes for swimming and being on ladders. ------------------------------- | Do NOT shoot while swimming | ------------------------------- Swimming is not being in knee-deep water, swimming is when your feet are no longer on the floor, and your 3D model is doing a breast stroke. Do NOT shoot while swimming and expect to hit anything, unless you are right next to the target. ------------------------------- | Do NOT shoot while climbing | ------------------------------- Finally, NEVER shoot while on a ladder unless there is an emergency. You will most likely not hit your target. If you must shoot, try to get off the ladder as soon as possible before shooting, or make sure your target is at point-blank range. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.b1 - The Rule of Aiming The general rule of thumb when aiming is simple. ----------------------------------------- | Aim for the neck area of an opponent. | ----------------------------------------- This gives you the greatest trade off of ease to hit and damage. The mid-section of the body is the easiest target, but you do more damage shooting the neck area. The most important reason to aim for this part, though, is to increase your chances of doing a head shot. A single shot to the head is lethal for almost all guns, except those using 9mm ammo. You could try aiming for the head, but this is harder and is something you should focus on only after you have gained a lot of experience. Head shot techniques will be elaborated on later. For now, keep in mind the effect of recoil. Because of it your first bullet may hit its target, but the next ones won't. This is very important in CS, as one shot is often not enough to kill a fully-armored opponent. Another bonus to shooting the neck area is that recoil tends to push assault rifles and submachine guns upward. Thus, your first shot may hit the neck area, but the next shots might be head shots. Just keep in mind the effects of accuracy and recoil, and you will be on the road to mastering aiming. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.c -- Basic Shooting Styles The next consideration to learning the basic skill of aiming is that there are two basic methods of shooting: auto-fire and single-fire. People usually adopt one of these two methods due to their weapons; someone using an MP5 will more likely use auto-fire, while someone using an Arctic is forced to go single-fire. Auto-fire pertains to shooting at a target repeatedly as long as the ammo holds out. Single-fire is shooting single shots to hit the opponent, often done while sniping. Someone going assault usually utilizes auto-fire. I've noticed that most people prefer either auto-fire or single-fire. Those that prefer auto usually go assault and master the MP5, Carbine, Steyr Aug, or Commando. Those that go single-fire become masters of the lethal Arctic Sniper Rifle. Each style has its strengths, and you would do well to specialize in one style. Once you've gained familiarity with one style, you can experiment with the other. -------------------------------------------------------------- | At first, pick your style, auto or single, and stick to it | -------------------------------------------------------------- AUTO-FIRE Auto-fire gives you a higher chance of hitting the opponent, but this is due to quantity and not quality. The more shots you fire, the more chances you have of hitting. But each individual bullet has less chance of hitting because of recoil. Most of the bigger guns let you engage in auto-fire just by holding the fire button down. Pistols, which have no automatic trigger, must be fired with rapid-succession presses to achieve an auto-fire effect. Auto-fire is useful in the the thick of the battle, speed is often of the essence, he who pulls the trigger first will hit the enemy first. However, do not be trigger happy! Because of recoil, many of your succeeding shots will be less likely to hit the target. ALWAYS aim carefully before pulling the trigger. Most beginners will aim in the general direction of the target, and even before the crosshair is at the target, will pull the trigger and never let go. This is, frankly, a waste of ammo and a good way to get killed. ------------------------------------------------------------------ | Always put the target in the sights BEFORE pulling the trigger | ------------------------------------------------------------------ This way, you won't waste the most crucial shot -- the first one, which has the highest likelihood of hitting. Succeeding shots have less chance of hitting due to recoil, and it is not uncommon for newbies to miss their target completely by just spraying their entire clip in a haphazard manner. SINGLE-FIRE Single-fire is used by the more skilled as a means of precision sniping. It is the intelligent way to get head shots. It is very useful to keep recoil under control, making sure your shots keep themselves on target. Because of recoil, some veterans prefer shooting in single-fire mode, especially when using high-recoil guns like the AK-47 and the Para machine gun. By shooting just single bullets instead of sprays, one can minimize the effects of recoil. ------------------------------------------------------ | Shooting single-fire reduces the effects of recoil | ------------------------------------------------------ All guns can be fired in single-fire, some harder than most. Pistols, the combat shotgun and sniper rifles are easy to fire in single shots. The assault rifles and SMGs, though need practice and a light tap on the fire button to shoot in single-fire. Also, single fire generally fires as fast as you can click. Of course, the gun will still limit how fast you can fire, but in some cases you can fire faster than the normal auto-fire trigger would allow. A good example would be the Sig 550 Commando. The trade-off, of course, is that you will spend some concentration on clicking the button furiously, rather than on whatever else you're doing (like aiming at the enemy or moving). BURST-FIRE Aside from the two basic styles of firing, there is a third, which is a sort of hybrid of the two: burst-fire. Shooting in bursts of around 3 bullets is a favored method for sniping by some, because it allows them a better chance of hitting a target, without sacrificing much accuracy from recoil. To achieve burst fire, use a touch similar to single-fire, only hold the fire button slightly longer. Of course, pistols and sniper rifles can't achieve this, except for the Glock which has a special burst-fire option. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.d -- Range After learning to aim, you need to apply your aiming skills to four basic divisions of range: point blank, close, medium, and long. Unit of measurement for distance is hard to define, so I will talk in terms of landmarks on a map. Since DE_DUST is perhaps the most well-known map, I will use it to approximate the distances. These aren't the exact distances I prescribe for range, but are close enough. From the primary bomb-site (the one that isn't the CT terrorist base), imagine yourself at the edge of the map across the double doors. The bombsite is between you and the double doors. From this point to the bombsite is basically CLOSE range. From the bombsite to the double doors is MEDIUM range. Anything beyond the doubledoors is LONG range. POINT BLANK is right next to you, close enough to use a knife. --------------------------------------------------- | Remember that range affects your accuracy a lot | --------------------------------------------------- At point blank, you will always hit your target as long as he is in front of you, so accuracy and recoil is not a problem. Shotguns are lethal at this range. At close range, only the sniper rifles will have any real trouble hitting the mark under conditions of low accuracy (moving or being on a ladder). This is the maximum effective range of shotguns. Medium range is basically the maximum range for pistols and sub machine guns to fire accurately and still have a good chance of being on target. Shotguns will still do minimal damage due to the spreading of ammo. Long range is the domain of rifles and machine guns only. While it is still possible to hit using pistols and SMGs, it is far less likely. It is important to note that auto-fire works well from point-blank to close range, but from medium to long range single-fire will more likely net you a kill. Also, using single-fire in close range is best left only to the highly-skilled, because otherwise the faster trigger finger of auto-fire will likely cut you to ribbons first. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.e -- Damage: Ammo and Location The final important basic consideration is with the amount of damage you deal out. Damage largely depends on two things: ammo and location. Different ammo types do different amounts of damage. The amount of damage a gun does depends almost entirely on its ammo, not on the gun itself. Some guns do more or less damage than others using the same ammo type, but in general damage is governed by ammo. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.e1 - Ammo These are the strengths of the different ammo types in Counter Strike, from weakest to strongest. Take note that this is by no means definitive, I did not check with the CS team or read a guide about them. Nor did I interview gun experts. Instead I relied on a much simpler method: I computed ammo to cost ratios! I honestly have no idea if this is accurate, but it seems to fit with my experience. Here is the order, from weakest to strongest: Cost Ratio Ammo -------------------------------------------- (0.66) 9mm Parabellum (1.00) 5.7x28mm (1.00) .338 Lapua Magnum (P90 Round) (2.00) 5.56mm NATO (2.08) .45 ACP (2.67) 7.62mm NATO (3.84) .357 Sig (5.71) .50 Action Express (8.13) *12 gauge (12.5) .338 Lapua Magnum (Sniper Round) -------------------------------------------- * - the 12 gauge buckshot used in shotguns is a special case. Since it is basically an explosion of buckshot, it dissipates the farther it goes. In close range, the highly concentrated buckshot can do more damage than a 7.62 round, but from mid range it only does about as much as a 9mm, and at long range it does next to nothing. Anyway, stronger ammo means that it will do more damage and possibly punch through armor better, but that also means its recoil is probably stronger. Also, there is one gun which is considerably stronger than others which use the same ammo type: the Arctic Magnum Sniper Rifle. It uses the same ammo as the FN P90, but unlike the P90 which needs multiple shots to kill, an Arctic will kill an opponent in one shot, no matter where it hits. Although they are the same kind of round, they are prepared differently; the rounds for the AWP come in these nasty, long, pointed cylinders maximized for long-range combat. That, in addition to the architecture of the rifle, make the difference in killing power. However, the truth is that Sierra messed up somewhere and assigned the wrong ammo to the P90. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.e2 - Location Now, where you hit your opponent is also important: hitting your opponent's arms and legs will do minimal damage. Hitting his body will do moderate damage, while hitting the head will do intense, if not lethal, damage. As far as I can tell, there are three basic locations on the terrorist or counterterrorist body for determining damage: the head, the body, and the extremities. HEAD AREA - this is the smallest, hardest to hit area, but also takes the most damage. Most guns kill an unarmored, healthy head in one blow. BODY AREA - this refers to the entire torso. It is the easiest to hit, and damage is moderate. Thus, armor should usually be bought. EXTREMITIES - this refers to your arms and legs. While not exactly easy to hit, people tend to hit the legs in particular when shooting from a different elevation. Damage here is minimal. I am not sure if these locations are entirely accurate, but that's what I noticed from experience. Now, I mentioned armor. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.e3 - Armor Armor helps you absorb damage. Depending on the integrity of your armor, it will decrease the amount of damage you take from certain types of ammo. This is the most important thing to remember about ammo types; many of them cannot pierce through kevlar effectively. 9mm ammo and 12 gauge buckshot are notoriously weak against armor, and do minimal damage to a person wearing armor. The same goes for the .357 Sig and .45 ACP rounds. 5.7x28mm and .338 Lapua Magnum have modest penetration against armor, but when the .338 is used in the Arctic, armor is meaningless. The .50 Action Express is excellent against armor, as well as the 5.56 and 7.62. In the former's case, however, I strongly suspect it is because of the rifle muzzle velocity gun and not really the ammo itself. It is hard to measure, because FMJ and JHP do not exist in CS. Armor comes in two varieties: a vest which protects the body area only, and a helmet which protects both body and head. However, when you shoot at the neck area of an opponent, you are more likely to hit his head. Headshots are most feared; always buy full armor if you can afford it! It's the only real defense aside from cowering behind a rock. -------------------------------------------------- | Never skimp on armor. Buy the vest and helmet. | -------------------------------------------------- Many novice and even some intermediate players don't buy armor, thinking it's a waste of money. They often complain that they die almost instantly anyway with or without it. Believe me, armor makes a HUGE difference. When your dodging skills have increased and you are fighting on more or less equal terms, you will notice how much armor keeps your health up. And when fighting very accurate shooters who aim for you head, that helmet is pure gold in determining who will win the battle. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3.f -- Stopping Power Another important consideration which I forgot to mention earlier (thanks Paul for reminding me) is stopping power. Have you ever noticed how, during a gunfight you thought you had your enemy dead in your sights, but suddenly you get hit and your gun shoots up, ruining your aim? Or how, while trying to run for cover, you are suddenly hit and you stop dead in your tracks, unable to dodge, and thus a sitting duck? These effects are attributed to something called Stopping Power. It is a very important tactical tool which makes killing an opponent without taking casualties easier. In this case, who gets the first draw, has a better chance of winning. Most guns have some level of stopping power. Some, though, have better stopping power than others. The stronger the stopping power, the longer the opponent takes to recover, and the more off his aim will be. It's hard to pinpoint the exact levels of stopping power are for each gun. The stopping power usually depends on the ammo type. I have made a rough estimate, based on CS experience, but since it's difficult to ascertain, I also relied on some real-world knowledge of what ammo is supposed to have strong stopping power. (Strongest) 12 gauge buckshot/7.62mm NATO .50 Action Express/.45 ACP 9mm Parabellum 5.56mm NATO/.357 Sig 5.7x28mm/.338 Lapua Magnum (P90) (Weakest) While the 8.6 arctic sniper round probably has great stopping power, it is irrelevant because one hit kills, no? Also, take note that successive shots have a greater cumulative effect of stopping the enemy. Thus, guns with a high rate of fire tend to have more effective stopping power than slower guns with better ammo. I'm not really sure about this table. Just keep in mind that ammo with strong armor piercing ability tend to have stronger stopping power -- this is because the impact is absorbed by the body, instead of going through it. Regardless, all guns have some sort of stopping power, and the differences between all the guns is minimal at best. In other words, even the worst gun has pretty good stopping power, enough to stun anyone as much as necessary. =============================================================================== IV. THE WEAPONS =============================================================================== Now that you have a basic concept of recoil and accuracy, you are ready to learn about the weapons. There are six basic kinds of weapons in CS: pistols, shotguns, submachine guns, assault rifles, sniper rifles, and machine guns. Each have different ratings for recoil, accuracy, encumbrance, as well as different ammo types. As a player, you can have two guns with you at most: one primary weapon, and one secondary weapon. Only pistols are allowed for secondary weapons, everything else is a primary. Each gun is detailed as follows: NAME: The name of the gun (alternative v1.0 name) [Quick Buy Number] COST: How much the gun plus a full clip costs AMMO: The kind of ammo the gun uses CLIP/MAX: The size of the clip/maximum ammo you can carry CLIP COST: How much one clip costs (number of bullets per clip) ACCURACY: High, medium or low, high means very accurate MOVE ACC: High, medium or low, how accurate the gun is while moving. RECOIL: High, medium, or low, high means strong recoil RATE OF FIRE: Fast, medium, or slow. The speed between shots. AUTOFIRE: Yes or no, whether the gun can engage autofire or not SPECIAL OPTION: What happens when you press the special weapon function. NOTES: Other things you about the weapon, and my tips and advice. SPECIAL OPTIONS: 1.) Sniper Scope Sniper scopes let you zoom in on a far away target. There are two zoom sizes: 2x or 4x. I just call them that; I don't know if they really make your vision twice or four times as close. It's something I carried over from my Action Quake days. Activating the scope increases movement accuracy, virtually removing any inaccuracies from moving and sidestepping. However, it also tends to decrease rate of fire. Further, using the scope warps your perception, making movement and aiming slightly tricky. 2.) Silencer Silencers remove muzzle flash and suppress the noise from firing a shot. This makes them good for ambushing in dark conditions. There is a drawback, though. I am not 100% sure what the drawback is, but it has something to do with decreasing your accuracy or damage, or maybe both. Realistically speaking, a silencer is supposed to reduce the velocity of your bullet. I am not sure how this is reflected in CS, but my tests show that your accuracy, especially at long ranges, is significantly lowered. I do not know for sure if it weakens the gun's attack power, but it is possible. I just haven't been able to test it. Take note that in v1.0 of CS Sierra, for some stupid reason, decided to rename the guns with some weird, unknown, bogus names. I include them here for those of you who only joined from v1.0 up, to clear any confusion as to nomenclature. I am told you can edit the TITLES.TXT file in your CS directory which corresponds to the weapon names, allowing you to change them back to what they're supposed to be. Did someone actually buy the rights to the names of these guns? How come the Ingram was left out? Heeeee..... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.a -- Pistols These are your choices available for your secondary weapon. It is crucial for your survival when you run out of ammo and do not have time to reload. Pistols have often have poor accuracy at range but are very accurate while moving. When using a pistol, in close range, be sure to side step a lot. Pistols also reload very quickly and are very light, allowing you to move very fast. The main disadvantage of the pistol is that, except for the Glock, they all have single-fire triggers. This means that you have to press furiously to achieve an auto-fire effect. When choosing your secondary, be sure to select a weapon that complements your primary. Determine this by weapon fighting-style. Primaries that mostly use auto-fire shooting should have a pistol with a large clip size and fast rate of fire (like the Glock or Five Seven). Those that rely on single-fire shooting should get strong ammo pistols that follow suit (like the USP or Desert Eagle). NAME: H&K USP .45 Tactical (K&M .45) [1-1] COST: $500 AMMO: .45 ACP CLIP/MAX: 12/48 CLIP COST: $25 (12) ACCURACY: Medium MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Low RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: No SPECIAL OPTION: Silencer NOTES: This is the standard issue CT gun. Counter Terrorists have the weapon advantage at the start because of this gun. With the .45 round, it is very strong, and is pretty good at medium range for sniping. A few shots is enough to kill anyone, even in full-armor. Using the silencer suppresses shot and muzzle fire, making you almost undetectable in low-visibility areas, but the trade-off is that you lose some accuracy. It's a trade-off you have to weigh for yourself. I personally prefer going without the silencer. Anyway, the USP is the average handgun to which all the other pistols are compared. NAME: Glock 18 Select Fire (9x19mm) [1-2] COST: $400 AMMO: 9mm Parabellum CLIP/MAX: 20/100 CLIP COST: $20 (20) ACCURACY: Low MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Low RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: No SPECIAL OPTION: Burst-Fire Mode NOTES: The default weapon of terrorists. Unfortunately for them, it is hands down the worst pistol in the game. It is weak, and shares ammo with the MP5. The gun has two saving graces: it has a useful burst-fire mode and a clip-size of 20. The burst-mode is useful for sniping, but forces you to aim carefully as your firing rate suddenly drops. At close range, burst fire is very difficult to use unless you have the accurate aiming usually reserved for shotgun experts. The large clip size may be appealing for people who prefer auto-fire style attacks, but with v1.0 the five-seven became available. It has the same clip size, is more accurate, and stronger. The Glock suddenly became a useless gun. The only reason to use it is because it is free for Terrorists. NAME: Desert Eagle .50 AE (Nighthawk) [1-3] COST: $650 AMMO: .50 Action Express CLIP/MAX: 7/35 CLIP COST: $40 (7) ACCURACY: Low MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Medium RATE OF FIRE: Medium AUTOFIRE: No SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: This is my personal handgun of choice. With the .50 ammo, it is the most powerful handgun in the game, heck is more powerful than most of the primary weapons. Its biggest downside is that it has a clip size of seven, so make those shots count. Fortunately, it reloads fast so as long as you are going one on one, you can usually reload after killing one opponent. The Desert Eagle is also surprisingly accurate at medium to long range, probably due to the strong caliber of the ammo. It is capable of making headshots with surprising ease even at such a distance. To top it off, this is the only pistol capable of punching through thin walls, like the rifles. Most people who have mastered the single-fire firing technique often prefer this handgun. The only other problem aside from the small clip is the slow rate of fire; the slowest among all the pistols. But with its power, who cares? NAME: SIG P228 (228) [1-4] COST: $600 AMMO: .357 Sig CLIP/MAX: 13/52 CLIP COST: $50 (13) ACCURACY: Medium MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Low RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: No SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: This gun is similar to the USP pistol, but better in practically every aspect. It is the second strongest handgun, second only to the Desert Eagle, but with a bigger clip size. This gun is also more accurate than the USP at short ranges. The only thing the USP has over this gun really is long range sniping. At long range, this gun tends not to be as accurate as the USP. Anyway, I don't find it worth the cost for a CT agent to purchase, as the improvements are marginal at best. It would be a good gun for a terrorist to buy in the first round, though. I actually had a long stint using this gun as my main secondary weapon; but I missed the power of the Eagle in the end. NAME: Dual Beretta 96G (.40 Dual Elites) [1-5] COST: $1000 AMMO: 9mm Parabellum CLIP/MAX: 30/120 CLIP COST: $20 (30) ACCURACY: High MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Medium RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: No SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: This is actually two handguns, one in each hand. This option really reminds me of a cheap alternative to the MP5. They are practically the same, except that they fire slightly slower, have no autofire option, and are VERY SLOW to reload. However, considering that they are only $1000 and are a secondary weapon, they are a top-choice for many as secondary weapons, as they can serve as primaries, like an MP5. If you belong to the auto-fire rather than the single-fire school, this will likely be your secondary weapon of choice. One weird thing about this weapon, though. It's supposed to be very accurate, I think as accurate as the Carbine. But the shots don't go where they're supposed to. The two-hand option affects the aim a bit; the left gun shoots slightly to the left, the right to the right. Its main drawback, though, is the horrendous reload time. Also, only terrorists can purchase it. All in all, the Beretta is basically just a more accurate Glock, but slightly stronger. NAME: Five Seven [1-6] COST: $750 AMMO: 5.7x28mm CLIP/MAX: 20/100 CLIP COST: $50 (50) ACCURACY: High MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Low RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: No SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: This new gun that came out in v1.0 is fast contending to be my favored handgun. It has stronger ammo, has a large clip size, is very accurate, it's almost perfect! The biggest boon is its sniping ability: this handgun was designed with the single-fire sniper in mind -- it is about as accurate as the M4 carbine at long range! That's not to understate its close combat capacity: the fast rate of fire and large clip make it quite effective, and it seems to work well against armored opponents. The only reason I still prefer the Desert Eagle is because it is infinitely more powerful, cheaper, and can be bought by both sides. The Five Seven is CT only. TRIVIA: This gun is so new that, as of this writing, it has not had any real combat experience! Gun experts have no definitive data on its actual combat capabilities. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.b -- Shotguns Shotguns are a very distinc weapon-type which only specialists should use. These are not the same shotguns in Action Quake; these are very specific in use: close combat. They are very light, and encumber you only about a bit more than a pistol. They are lethal in close combat, but next to useless at medium or greater range. One of the nifty features of the shotguns is the ability to fire immediately after reloading just one shell. This split- second difference could mean the difference between life and death in certain situations where you run out of ammo but suddenly need to fire again. NAME: Benneli M3 Super90 (Leone 12 Gauge Super) [2-1] COST: $1700 AMMO: 12 gauge CLIP/MAX: 8/32 CLIP COST: $65 (8) ACCURACY: Medium MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: High RATE OF FIRE: Slow AUTOFIRE: No SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: This is a true specialist weapon, intended for those who have mastered the art of single-fire headshots. At close range or closer, one shot is enough to kill, provided you aimed for the general neck area. Unfortunately, the slow rate of fire means that, in most instances, you get only one chance to kill your opponent, if you miss the first shot, your enemy with an MP5 or other auto-fire gun will likely mow you down before you get a second chance. Aside from the one-shot kill potential at close range, this weapon has no other use. The buck shot scatters too much even at medium range, making it useless as a sniping tool, and it only really works against one opponent because of the slow rate of fire. NAME: Benneli XM1014 (Leone YG1265 Auto Shotgun) [2-2] COST: $3000 AMMO: 12 gauge CLIP/MAX: 7/32 CLIP COST: $65 (8) ACCURACY: Medium MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Medium RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: This works almost like M3, except that it has a slightly smaller clip and has auto-fire ability! Because of the auto-fire capability, it is possible to take on multiple opponents at close range with this gun. It also means you have more leeway for missing the first shot, as it is fast enough to fire again before you get plastered. However, for some reason the M3 is slightly more powerful than the XM1014; on occasion I have hit a person straight on the head with this gun, yet he did not die, whereas with the M3 they always die. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.c -- Submachine Gun Submachine guns (SMGs) are great close range weapons. They are fairly light, heavier than a shotgun but lighter than most rifles, and are usually very accurate at close to medium range, even while moving. They are also relatively cheap. Their only real drawback is that they often do not have as much penetrating power as the real rifles, meaning armor does a good job of stopping them. Also, they tend to lose accuracy at long range because of shorter barrels and weaker ammo rounds designed for fast emptying up-close. NAME: H&K MP5-Navy (SMG) [3-1] COST: $1500 AMMO: 9mm Parabellum CLIP/MAX: 30/120 CLIP COST: $20 (30) ACCURACY: Medium MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Low RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: H&K's MP5 is the weapon of choice of most counter-terrorist agents both in CS and in the real world. Why? It's cheap, is remarkably accurate, handles perfectly, has a killer rate of fire, and reloads like a dream. Its only real drawback is the poor penetration power of its 9mm round. Other than that, it's perfect for assaults, and is also pretty good for sniping at medium range. In fact, recoil and accuracy are good enough that you can snipe in large bursts with this gun. Most people train getting headshots with the MP5 by simply aiming in the general head area and letting go. And they get results, too. This is the weapon of choice of most players proficient in the auto-fire technique. This gun is the biggest reason why you should always buy a full suit of kevlar every round: most of your opponents are likely to be using it. This is widely held by many in the CS community as the best gun for close combat. It is the standard from which I compare all other guns. NAME: Steyr Tactical Machine Pistol (Schmidt MP) [3-2] COST: $1250 AMMO: 9mm Parabellum CLIP/MAX: 30/120 CLIP COST: $20 (30) ACCURACY: Medium MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Low RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: This is a CT only gun which is basically a cheaper alternative to the MP5. It works almost exactly the same as the MP5, and is cheaper to boot. People who love the MP5 will feel right at home using this gun. There are a few minor differences. First, the MP5 is slightly more accurate at range, while the TMP is more accurate up close. Second, the Steyr TMP has a slightly faster rate of fire (I think it has the fastest rate of fire in the game). Lastly, and most importantly, the Steyr seems to do less damage than an MP5. Still overall, it's a great bargain at only $1250, and if you're a CT and love using the MP5, you might consider changing to this to save money. NAME: FN P90 (ES C90) [3-3] COST: $2350 AMMO: .338 Lapua Magnum CLIP/MAX: 50/100 CLIP COST: 50$ (50) ACCURACY: Medium MOVE ACC: HIGH RECOIL: Medium RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: It has been called the porcshe of SMGs, and with its sleek look and lightning fast firing rate, it deserves the name. This gun can shred opponents in seconds, at close range anyway. It is the most powerful of the SMGs, capable of doing major damage in a very short span of time. This damage, though, I believe is due to the ammo type: the P90 is supposed to be good against armor in real life, so I think that this is the one SMG in CS that does reasonably well against armor, compared to the other SMGs. Its only drawback is that it is quite inaccurate while moving compared to the other SMGs, and does not have the range of the true assault rifles. And of course, it's quite expensive for an SMG. Sniping with this gun at long range is difficult, but possible, provided you use single-fire shots. However, this gun was not made for sniping, and shooting auto-fire at even just close to medium range will already give you a very poor hit ratio. All in all, this is a good cheap alternative to the assault rifles, minus the sniping capability. The good part is that it actually handles better while moving than most assault rifles, and can win a side- stepping match against the bigger guns most of the time. Best used for close combat, but the MP5 still rules in that category, I think. MP5 is cheaper, too. TRIVIA: I have no idea how a .338 round fits in the P90; this thing is supposed to use the 5.7 ammo type. NAME: Ingram MAC-10 [3-4] COST: $1400 AMMO: .45 ACP CLIP/MAX: 30/96 CLIP COST: $25 (12) ACCURACY: Low MOVE ACC: Medium RECOIL: High RATE OF FIRE: Fast AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: The Mac-10 is a very volatile, uncontrollable weapon that can only be bought by terrorists. It is stronger than the MP5, but the recoil is also much stronger. Now, since I finished up with the MP5 recently, I've been playing with the Ingram more. I'm learning a lot of new stuff about this weapon! First off, I realized that this gun has a much faster firing rate than I previously realized. This ups its rating in my book tremendously. Still, the lack of accuracy and control still reduce its usefulness. It's still a weapon which you should buy when you're on a budget but need stopping power. Perhaps the worst aspect of this weapon is that you need to buy a whole lot of ammo, as each purchase of ammo gives you only 12 shots for $25 bucks. Not a good deal. When you consider how much ammo you have to buy, the MP5 is still cheaper. I like to think of this gun as a mini-AK, except that it doesn't have the accuracy and power that make the AK-47 a great gun. All in all, this is the stronger alternative to the MP5, minus the controllability. NAME: H&K UMP45 (K&M UMP45) [3-5] COST: $1700 AMMO: .45 ACP CLIP/MAX: 25/100 CLIP COST: $25 (12) ACCURACY: High MOVE ACC: Medium RECOIL: Low RATE OF FIRE: Medium AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: This recent addition in v1.0 is a pretty interesting gun. It is like an MP5, except that its rate of fire is slow and it has a smaller clip. The boon, though, is that it has better ammo (.45) and is more accurate, making it easier to snipe at medium range. However, the gun still stops short of being truly effective at long range, as is the case with all SMGs. All in all, it is quite worth its price tag, although it is not as good as the MP5 for close-range combat. Its slow rate of fire makes it hard to use at close-range. Its real use is for mid to long range sniping, while doubling as a decent alternative for close combat. This is easily the slowest among all the SMGs for rate of fire. Perhaps my biggest beef with this gun is that, like the Mac10, it only buys ammo in increments of 12, making initial setup harder. In conclusion, I like to compare this to the AK-47: it's a mini-AK with better close combat handling, but weaker attack power. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4.d -- Rifles Rifles are the real weapons in this game. They are expensive, but worth the price. They are very powerful, capable of tearing through opponents in just a few shots, can punch through walls and armor, and are very accurate for long-range fire. They usually pay for this in recoil, but all in all these guns are the lifeblood of many terrorists and counter terrorists. All rifles can pierce through walls and other obstacles to some extent. NAME: AK-47 (CV-47) [4-1] COST: $2500 AMMO: 7.62 NATO CLIP/MAX: 30/90 CLIP COST: $80 (30) ACCURACY: High MOVE ACC: Medium RECOIL: High RATE OF FIRE: Medium AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: None NOTES: There are two big reasons why people like playing terrorist: the AK-47 and the Sig Commando. This is my personal terrorist-only gun of choice. The cheap price tag of the AK, combined with its incredible power and accuracy, made it the bad-ass assault gun back in the early days. Unfortunately, since beta 7 this gun was toned down by making extremely heavy, slowing your movement considerably. Still, the AK is a great gun. It is very accurate, making long range sniping a breeze. Its 7.62 round is so powerful, you will be killing many enemies with just a few shots. This is also one of the best guns to get headshots. The only real drawback of this gun, aside from its weight, is its powerful recoil. You cannot afford to use auto-fire with this gun; most of your shots will miss. That is why this gun is not really suited for assault, it is more of a mid-range sniping assault gun. Used in conjunction with single-fire sniping techniques, this is a very lethal specialist's gun, suitable for almost all combat conditions. NAME: Sig SG-552 Commando (Krieg 552 Commando) [4-2] COST: $3500 AMMO: 5.56mm NATO CLIP/MAX: 30/90 CLIP COST: $60 (30) ACCURACY: Medium MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Medium RATE OF FIRE: Medium AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: 2x Sniper Scope NOTES: The Commando is a terrorist-only gun, and is arguably one of the best in the game. It combines accuracy and power with a 2x sniper scope, allowing you to pick off targets who haven't even seen you yet. It is the counterpart of the CT's Steyr Aug, over which it has the advantage of faster reload time, less recoil and better handling. Its drawback is that it is expensive, and rate of fire is slightly slower than that of a Steyr Aug. Still, overall, this gun is worth its price easily. NAME: Colt M4A1 Carbine (Maverick M4A1 Carbine) [4-3] COST: $3100 AMMO: 5.56mm NATO CLIP/MAX: 30/90 CLIP COST: $60 (30) ACCURACY: High MOVE ACC: High RECOIL: Low RATE OF FIRE: Medium AUTOFIRE: Yes SPECIAL OPTION: Silencer NOTES: This is a counter-terrorist only gun, the direct counterpart of the AK-47. It is easily the best all-around gun in the game. It has all the handling of the MP5, but is more accurate and powerful, making it easier to kill opponents close up and afar. Its only drawback is that it is a bit more expensive than most SMGs, but still is cheaper than most other rifles. It is also slightly slower at firing than an MP5, and has slightly s Other Half-Life: Counterstrike cheats hints faqs solutions: 1. Half-Life: Counterstrike cheat codes 1. Half-Life: Counterstrike cheat codes 2. Half-Life: Counterstrike cheat codes 3. Half-Life: Counterstrike cheat codes 4. Half-Life: Counterstrike cheat codes 5. Half-Life: Counterstrike cheat codes 6. Half-Life: Counterstrike cheat codes 1. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 1. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 2. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 3. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 4. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 5. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 6. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 7. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 8. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 9. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 10. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 11. Half-Life: Counterstrike hints 1. Half-Life: Counterstrike faq and solutions 1. Half-Life: Counterstrike faq and solutions 2. Half-Life: Counterstrike faq and solutions 2. Half-Life: Counterstrike faq and solutions |